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Araya's, a vegan Thai restaurant, is just the kind of peaceable kingdom you'd expect it to be (queendom actually, since like many Thai chefs, Araya Pudpard is a woman). It's got golden walls, potted plants, a blue-sky-painted ceiling, quilted wall hangings, and dancing sculptures. The air is heated to near steaminess, and there's a high dreadlock count among the diners. But there are also a couple of Middle American parents eating happily with--one can only imagine--their newly radicalized college-aged kids. And that's the good thing about Thai food: You can easily go vegetarian, or vegan for that matter, in mixed company.