When it comes to yielding flavorsome herbs and spices, the most productive parts of plants are usually above the soil: leaves (basil, sage, cilantro); seeds (mustard, nutmeg); fruits (chiles, tamarind); and even flowers and buds (saffron, cloves, capers). However, just below the culinary sight line and no less robust in taste are seasonings derived from roots and stems.
Some, like cilantro roots, are often discarded despite having as much flavor as the leafy or fruity parts more commonly used for spices and herbs. Others are mainstays of the pantry, such as bulbous onions and garlic, and root-like ginger. But if you’re looking to liven up your spice repertoire with new down-to-earth seasonings, give the following tasty trio a try.
Sensational Stems
Ginger is to Chinese cuisine what the chile is to Mexican cookery - an essential ingredient that adds unmistakable zestiness to a recipe. However, it’s not the only spice that enjoys a close association with Asian culinary traditions: two rhizome* relatives and a neighboring stalk also help to create the distinctive tastes of Far Eastern food. They may be more readily available in dried or ground form, but their flavors may not be as robust, so check with your local Asian grocery or farmers’ market for the fresh whole produce.
*Despite its appearance, a rhizome is not a root, but rather an underground plant stem.
Turmeric
At first glance, it looks like a skinny version of its cousin ginger, but once peeled, turmeric reveals a bright orange interior and a scent that’s mustard-y rather than peppery. Perhaps best known for its use in the spice mixtures of Indian cuisine, it has a subtler flavor than that of ginger and is often used as a colorant that imparts a bright yellow tint to sauces and rice dishes (its Tagalog name is dilaw, meaning ‘yellow’), earning it the nickname ‘Indian saffron’ for its similar use. Turmeric’s main component curcumin is currently being studied for its potential health benefits as a treatment for Alzheimer’s disease, as an anti-cancer compound and as protection against cardiovascular disease.
- To prepare fresh turmeric for cooking, peel off the outer skin and grate or julienne it before adding to simmering sauces and liquids. Beware: Turmeric will stain fingertips, dish towels, clothes, and just about anything else. Try these simple solutions for removing them easily.
- To store, wrap unpeeled turmeric in a paper towel and store in a sealed plastic bag in the refrigerator.
Galanga
If turmeric looks like ginger on a diet, then galanga is ginger on steroids. Stockier than its rootstalk relations, galanga (or galangal) is also tougher, so great care is needed when cutting through its somewhat woody texture. It is a star ingredient in Thai cookery where it is named kha and is used in soups such as tom kha gai (chicken in galanga-infused coconut milk), stir-frys and curry pastes. In taste and aroma, it has a wonderfully clean flavor and fresh piney scent that are as pungent as ginger’s own spicy notes. Like that other rhizome, galanga’s medicinal uses include aiding digestion and relieving nausea and other stomach ailments.
- To prepare fresh galanga for cooking, wash skin thoroughly (you may also peel or scrape it off, if preferred) and crush, grate or cut into chunks. Remove the latter from your prepared dish before serving as its inedible woody texture does not soften with cooking.
- To store, place in a plastic bag and refrigerate for up to 3 weeks. May also be frozen for up to 3 months.
Lemongrass
Also known as citronella, lemongrass is precisely what its name suggests – a type of tall grass whose essential oil contains citral, a chemical compound also found in lemon peel oil. It is extensively used in Southeast Asia cuisines, particularly Thai, Indonesian and Vietnamese, in soups, curry pastes, and meat marinades, such as for barbecued lemongrass beef. In the Philippines, this citrus-flavored stalk is called tanglad and is the not-so-secret stuffing ingredient for Cebu lechon, a regional specialty of roasted whole pig. Lemongrass also makes a delicious hot tea, excellent for soothing an upset stomach: simply steep pieces of fresh stalks in hot water for 5 minutes (see how to prepare below).
- To prepare fresh lemongrass for cooking, strip off the outermost layer and cut off the very tip of the base. Since the stalk itself is not edible, the best way to release its flavorful essential oil is by ‘bruising’ it: with the blunt edge of a chef’s or other large knife, roughly chop at the lower, bulbous part of the stem until it is mashed but still intact.
- To store, wrap tightly in plastic wrap and refrigerate for up to 2 weeks. May also be frozen indefinitely.
Cooking suggestions:
- Galanga’s clean, fresh aroma is excellent for tempering the pungency of seafood and meat. Add a chunk or two in stews or braising liquids.
- Instead of an orange or lemon inside your next roasted chicken or turkey, try stuffing it with bundles of lemongrass. Be sure to bruise the stalks first.
- Add grated turmeric when cooking rice to add some bright color to your plate.
Use all three spices in an easy aromatic, colorful and delicious sauce that’s perfect for fish and seafood:
1 Tbsp butter or oil
1 small onion, diced
2 cloves garlic, minced
2 stalks lemongrass, trimmed and bruised
1 piece (2”) turmeric, peeled and coarsely slivered
1 piece (2”) galangal, peeled and cut into chunks
2 kaffir lime leaves, sliced into strips (optional)
1 can coconut milk
½ cup chicken or seafood stock
Lightly sauté garlic and onion in a bit of oil or butter, then add lemongrass, turmeric, galangal and kaffir lime leaves (if using). Sauté for another couple of minutes until fragrant, then add coconut milk. Bring to a gentle simmer and cook for about 10-15 minutes. Add stock and return to gentle simmer for another 5 minutes. Strain out large pieces of lemongrass, turmeric and galangal, if desired. Add raw fish or seafood and simmer until cooked through.
Tracey Paska lives, eats and writes in Manila, Philippines, where she revels in the fact that she can wear flip-flops outdoors in January. When she's not exploring Manila's foodscape, she freelances for a national food magazine and writes about the complex and fascinating connections between food, culture, and society on her blog Tangled Noodle. Her last post for us was: The Savory Side of Cooking with Fruits.
