With this morning’s announcement of 2009’s Academy Award nominees, it seems appropriate to look at food from the perspective of a movie goer. Last year, two broadly released movies featured food in a starring role: Food, Inc. and Julie and Julia. We’ll find out today if either of them garners any nominations.
In the meantime, I’d like to look back through the years and pick the films that most successfully incorporate food into the plot. I’ll include the most recent first, then continue moving backwards in time. Then on Thursday, I’ll select the most memorable food-related scenes from the history of cinema.
1. Food, Inc. (2009)
Directed by Robert Kenner
This film lifted the veil on the industrial food industry to a mainstream audience; some viewers, no doubt, got their first glimpse inside a CAFO. My favorite review of this movie ran in New York magazine. Here’s an excerpt: “It’s the documentary equivalent of The Matrix: It shows us how we’re living in a simulacrum, fed by machines run by larger machines with names like Monsanto, Perdue, Tyson, and the handful of other corporations that make everything. We humans can win, but we should hurry, before Monsanto makes a time machine and sends back a Terminator to get rid of [Eric] Schlosser and [Michael] Pollan.” By the way, this film has a local connection; one of the film’s executive producers was Bill Pohlad, son of Twin Cities billionaire Carl Pohlad.
2. Julie and Julia (2009)
Directed by Norah Ephron
I wrote about this film last November, when I featured Julia Child’s recipe for Potato-Leek soup. Here’s what I said: “Skip Julie. Savor Julia. Poor Amy Adams, who plays Julie. My daughters and I loved her in Enchanted, but her most talented co-star in that film was an animated chipmunk. In Julie and Julia, she competes for attention with, quite simply, the greatest actress ever to utter a word of dialogue. Meryl Streep magnificently embodies the legend, the icon, the first-ever celebrity chef who still reigns supreme -- Julia Child.” I stand by those words. And today, don't be surprised if you hear that Ms. Streep received her 16th Academy Award nomination for her performance.
3. Ratatouille (2007)
Directed by Brad Bird
Most of us are conditioned to be repulsed by the thought of a rat in the kitchen. That’s the premise that makes this movie so fun. When Parisian rodent Remy lands, literally, in a pot of soup in a restaurant kitchen, he forms a partnership with Linguini the “garbage boy.” Together they create culinary magic and a creative, engaging, thoroughly enjoyable story about two misfits who find success through collaboration. This film remains one of my family’s favorites to watch together and stands up well to repeat viewings. The "tracking" shot of Remy trying to remain out of site in the restaurant kitchen is meticulously conceived and executed. And the critic Ego's review, near the end of the film, is screenwriting at its best. (It doesn't hurt that it is performed by the late, great Peter O'Toole.)
4. Charlie and the Chocolate Factory (2005)Directed by Tim Burton
Based on Roald Dahl's book about an impoverished boy who wins a guided tour of a legendary chocolate factory, Tim Burton adds a unique quirkiness to the ultimate fantasy film for sweet-toothed viewers. (Imagine an unlimited supply of chocolate; gum that always keeps its flavor; suckers that don't shrink, no matter how long you suck them.) Include another ego-less performance by the immensely talented Johnny Depp as the elusive and eccentric chocolate master Willy Wonka, and you've got another food film that's fun for the whole family. Hold onto your seat for the glass elevator ride that's so realistic your stomach may flip.
5. Supersize Me (2004)
Directed by Morgan Spurlock
This is the documentary that launched the career of Morgan Spurlock, the man who turned the camera on himself as he embarked on a McDonald's-only diet for 30 days. It’s difficult to watch Spurlock as he sacrifices his physical, mental and emotional health to prove how bad this food really is. In addition to gaining 24 pounds, significantly increasing his body fat index and cholesterol levels, and damaging his liver, he suffered mood swings and depression that jeopardized his relationship with his fiance, a vegan chef. I doubt that anyone who sees this film will ever mindlessly eat a Big Mac again.
6. The Future of Food (2004)
Directed by Deborah Koons
Another food documentary, this one emphasizes the rise of genetically engineered foods and the powerful BigAg monoliths that manipulate DNA to create monoculture monopolies. Koons also features some of the farmers who have been sued by GMO-seed producer and herbicide manufacturer Monsanto for so-called patent infringements, after the company’s exclusive RoundUp Ready seeds were found growing in their fields. This movie is scarier then The Exorcist, The Omen and The Terminator all rolled into one; because demons, the anti-Christ and "I'll be back" are wimps, compared to the evil of Monsanto. I consider this movie the real-life prequel to Soylent Green (see below).
7. Woman on Top (2000)
Directed by Fina Torres
I include this one for my husband, who thinks its star, Penelope Cruz, is the most alluring actress alive. This is a romantic comedy about a Brazilian chef who moves to San Francisco and gets a job hosting a TV cooking show. A chronic case of motion sickness influences how she conducts her life; for instance, her need to be “on top” during sex gives the film its racy title. But the story is less about titillation and more about one woman’s quest for independence and self-actualization, as only Cruz can pull it off. Oh, and the food looks pretty tasty, too.
8. Eat Drink Man Woman (1994)
Directed by Ang Lee
This is a film that uses food as a metaphor for the emotional highs and lows of family relationships. One of Taiwan’s most respected chefs is a widower with three grown daughters. He is a success to his customers and clients, but his daughters are much harder to please. He struggles to keep family traditions intact while they struggle to find their own way. Early in the film, we learn that he, ironically, has lost his sense of taste. Lee uses this to symbolize the chef's loss of passion, as well. By the end of the film, though, he regains both, as well as a better understanding of what’s important to his daughters. The bonus is that Chinese food has never been photographed so beautifully or reverentially as it is shown here.
9. Big Night (1996)
Directed by Campbell Scott and Stanley Tucci
Two Italian brothers make a last-ditch effort to save their New Jersey restaurant from foreclosure. They hear that jazz bandleader Louis Prima is coming to town so they plan the ultimate Italian feast on his behalf, believing this will drive customers to their door. He’s a no-show, but the sumptiously elaborate meal goes on without him, accompanied by a loud and lively mix of sibling rivalry, love squabbles, and a primer on Timpano. The last scene -- two brothers, the next morning, starting over with a simple breakfast of eggs and bread -- brings the chaos to a quiet, satisfying end.
10. Soylent Green (1973)
Directed by Richard Fleischer
I saw Soylent Green at the drive-in with my parents when I was 13 years old; I have not shaken it yet. It’s about a world in the not-too-distance future that is crowded, dangerous and toxic; and the only thing that people have to eat is a synthetic food-like substance -- either "Soylent Blue," "Soylent Yellow," or “Soylent Green.” But a routine murder investigation by police officer Charlton Heston reveals the truth about what makes this "food" nutritionally complete. (Hint: It ain't vegan.) By the way, this film is set in the year 2022; so we have 12 years of work ahead of us to save ourselves from this fate.
If I had room to write about five more, they would be:
11. Eat Drink Man Woman (1994)
12. Like Water for Chocolate (1992)
13. Babette's Feast (1987)
14. Tampopo (1985)
15. My Dinner with Andre (1981)
But I don't, so that's all for now.
Remember: On Thursday, I’ll help you remember the most memorable movie scenes about food.
